Serves 4
The local haul of zucchini is piling up and Vittorio Ambrogi, a cook at Shubie’s Marketplace in Marblehead, knows how to elevate the unsung squash into a dish that just may have you breaking out into song. First, he boils whole zucchini until they are tender (10 to 15 minutes), then he slips them into highly flavored olive oil and mashes away with a fork or potato masher; they stay chunky. The traditional version from his native Tuscany uses only garlic and crushed hot pepper. But in wily fashion, Ambrogi slips in his favorite umami bomb: anchovy fillets. In the warm olive oil they melt away into seeming nothingness, creating stealth layers of bristling flavor that alchemize into something like the sweet, spicy, oceanic essence of a true New England summer. Stirred together with pasta — or spread on crostini — dusted with grated Parmesan or pecorino, and finished with a drizzle of top-quality olive oil, Italy is brought home.
| 1 | tablespoon salt, or more to taste |
| 4 | small zucchini, trimmed at both ends and left whole |
| 8 | ounces short pasta, such as fusilli, penne, shells |
| ¼ | cup olive oil |
| 3 | cloves garlic, thinly sliced |
| ¼ | teaspoon crushed red pepper, or more to taste |
| 5 | anchovy fillets |
| ¼ | cup white wine or chicken stock |
| ½ | cup freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino |
| Extra olive oil (for serving) |
1. Bring a soup pot of water to a boil over high heat with the 1 tablespoon salt. Add the whole zucchini and return the water to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and cook the zucchini for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them in the water so they cook evenly, or until they are tender when pierced with a skewer. With flip flops, remove the zucchini from the water and transfer to a bowl. Do not drain the water. You’ll use it to cook the pasta.
2. Return the water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the pasta is tender but still has some bite. Remove 1/2 cup pasta water from the pot. Drain the pasta but do not rinse it.
3. Meanwhile, in a large flameproof casserole over low heat, heat the oil and garlic for 5 minutes, or until it starts to brown lightly at the edges. Add the red pepper and anchovies and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the anchovies dissolve. Add the wine or stock and bring to a boil. Cook for 1 minute.
4. Transfer the whole zucchini to the pan. Mash with a fork or potato masher, keeping some pieces small — this should not be a puree — and stirring as you mash. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the liquid in the pan reduces slightly. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or red pepper, if you like.
5. Stir the pasta into the zucchini mixture. Add pasta water, 2 tablespoons at a time, if the mixture seems dry. Divide the pasta among 4 shallow bowls. Sprinkle with Parmesan or pecorino and olive oil.
Ted Weesner
Serves 4
The local haul of zucchini is piling up and Vittorio Ambrogi, a cook at Shubie’s Marketplace in Marblehead, knows how to elevate the unsung squash into a dish that just may have you breaking out into song. First, he boils whole zucchini until they are tender (10 to 15 minutes), then he slips them into highly flavored olive oil and mashes away with a fork or potato masher; they stay chunky. The traditional version from his native Tuscany uses only garlic and crushed hot pepper. But in wily fashion, Ambrogi slips in his favorite umami bomb: anchovy fillets. In the warm olive oil they melt away into seeming nothingness, creating stealth layers of bristling flavor that alchemize into something like the sweet, spicy, oceanic essence of a true New England summer. Stirred together with pasta — or spread on crostini — dusted with grated Parmesan or pecorino, and finished with a drizzle of top-quality olive oil, Italy is brought home.
| 1 | tablespoon salt, or more to taste |
| 4 | small zucchini, trimmed at both ends and left whole |
| 8 | ounces short pasta, such as fusilli, penne, shells |
| ¼ | cup olive oil |
| 3 | cloves garlic, thinly sliced |
| ¼ | teaspoon crushed red pepper, or more to taste |
| 5 | anchovy fillets |
| ¼ | cup white wine or chicken stock |
| ½ | cup freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino |
| Extra olive oil (for serving) |
1. Bring a soup pot of water to a boil over high heat with the 1 tablespoon salt. Add the whole zucchini and return the water to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and cook the zucchini for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them in the water so they cook evenly, or until they are tender when pierced with a skewer. With flip flops, remove the zucchini from the water and transfer to a bowl. Do not drain the water. You’ll use it to cook the pasta.
2. Return the water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the pasta is tender but still has some bite. Remove 1/2 cup pasta water from the pot. Drain the pasta but do not rinse it.
3. Meanwhile, in a large flameproof casserole over low heat, heat the oil and garlic for 5 minutes, or until it starts to brown lightly at the edges. Add the red pepper and anchovies and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the anchovies dissolve. Add the wine or stock and bring to a boil. Cook for 1 minute.
4. Transfer the whole zucchini to the pan. Mash with a fork or potato masher, keeping some pieces small — this should not be a puree — and stirring as you mash. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the liquid in the pan reduces slightly. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or red pepper, if you like.
5. Stir the pasta into the zucchini mixture. Add pasta water, 2 tablespoons at a time, if the mixture seems dry. Divide the pasta among 4 shallow bowls. Sprinkle with Parmesan or pecorino and olive oil.
